Fire Island at a glance
Fire Island's two gay towns, Cherry Grove and Fire Island Pines, sit side by side on a car-free barrier island off Long Island. From Manhattan, take the LIRR to Sayville and the Sayville Ferry, about 2.5 hours door to door. The Grove is older, more mixed and more casual; the Pines is sleeker and leans gay male.
Fire Island is a thin strip of sand off the south shore of Long Island, most of it protected as Fire Island National Seashore. There are no roads between its communities and no cars to speak of: you arrive by ferry, walk on wooden boardwalks and haul your bags in a little wagon. Two of its hamlets, Cherry Grove and Fire Island Pines, have been queer summer towns for generations, and they sit side by side on the same stretch of beach.
Both are reached from one mainland terminal in Sayville. The season runs from roughly Memorial Day to mid-September, with a quieter shoulder on either side. Outside it, the ferry still runs a reduced schedule but most businesses are shut.
| What | Details |
|---|---|
| Ferry operator | Sayville Ferry Service, River Road, Sayville. Boats to Cherry Grove, Fire Island Pines, Sailors Haven (Sunken Forest) and Water Island. |
| Ferry fare | Adult round trip $20 cash or $20.70 by card; one way $11 cash or $11.39 by card. Child (2-11) round trip $11. Dog round trip $7. |
| Crossing time | About 20 to 30 minutes across the Great South Bay. |
| Train | LIRR to Sayville (Montauk Branch). From Penn Station or Grand Central: $16.00 off-peak or $21.50 peak, one way. |
| Parking at the dock | $13 a day Monday to Thursday; $24 a day Friday to Sunday and holidays. |
| Peak season | Memorial Day weekend to Labor Day. In 2027 that is May 28-31 through September 6. |
| Cars on the island | None. Pack as if you will carry everything, because you will. |
How to get to Fire Island from NYC without a car
Train, shuttle, boat. It is three steps and it is how most New Yorkers do it.
1. LIRR to Sayville
Take the Long Island Rail Road to Sayville on the Montauk Branch from Penn Station, Grand Central Madison or Atlantic Terminal; the ride takes about an hour and a half and you change trains at Jamaica or Babylon, so follow the TrainTime app. Sayville is in fare zone 10: $16.00 off-peak and $21.50 peak one way under the fares that took effect on January 4, 2026. Peak means weekday trains leaving the city between 4pm and 8pm (and arriving 6am to 10am). Buy before you board: tickets sold by the conductor carry a surcharge of $7.75 to $8.50. LIRR fares and tickets
2. Shuttle or taxi to the dock
The ferry terminal is on River Road, about a 10-minute ride from Sayville station. Shuttle vans and taxis meet the summer trains. Carry some cash for this leg.
3. Sayville Ferry to the Grove or the Pines
Cherry Grove and the Pines have separate boats from the same terminal, so read the sign before you board. Boarding is first come, first served, and paying cash is slightly cheaper than card. Photograph the return schedule before you leave the dock: the last boat back is earlier than first-timers expect, and schedules change by season (the fall schedule is posted now). Sayville Ferry schedules
Driving instead
Daily parking sits directly across from the terminal: $13 Monday to Thursday, $24 Friday to Sunday and holidays. Lots fill on summer weekends, so arrive early. Parking questions: 631-589-0810.
Friday evenings are peak fare
The classic Friday 5pm escape is a peak LIRR train. Leave before 4pm or after 8pm and you pay off-peak.
Between the two towns
Water taxis run harbor to harbor and can be called on demand. Fares vary by distance and they prefer cash. The walk takes about 20 minutes.
Dogs and discounts
Dogs ride for $4 one way or $7 round trip. Seniors and disabled passengers pay $19 round trip in cash.
Cherry Grove vs the Pines: which one is for you?
They share a beach and a ferry terminal and almost nothing else. Most people end up loving both.
| Cherry Grove | Fire Island Pines | |
|---|---|---|
| Feel | Scrappy, theatrical, everybody-welcome. Lesbians, drag queens, gay men, trans and nonbinary folks, day-trippers. | Sleeker and more scene-driven, majority gay men, built around the harbor and the house-share calendar. |
| Known for | Drag, community theater, the Ice Palace, the launch of the Invasion every July 4. | Tea dance, the Pavilion, the Pines Party, modernist houses in the trees. |
| Where to stay | Several guesthouses plus the Grove Hotel at the dock. | Mostly house shares and rentals. Very few rooms by the night. |
| Budget | Easier. More casual food, more rooms. | Higher. Plan it like a resort weekend. |
| Best for | First visits, mixed groups, drag fans, sapphic travelers. | Dancing, long stays with friends, design lovers. |
Cherry Grove is the older of the two and the looser. Narrow boardwalks, small cottages with punning names, and a little downtown at the ferry dock where the bars face the bay. It is home to the Arts Project of Cherry Grove, which describes itself as America's oldest LGBTQ community arts organization and staged 25 shows in its 2025 season. Nobody here cares what you look like in a swimsuit.
The Pines is a short walk east and a different mood: larger houses hidden in holly and pine, a yacht harbor, and a day that is organized around tea. The harborfront has changed hands. Tryst Hospitality, led by Tristan Schukraft, took a controlling stake in the commercial district and now brands it The Waterfront at The Pines. The Pavilion, the Blue Whale, the Canteen and the Tryst Pool Club all operated in summer 2026.
Between the two lies a stretch of protected dune and woodland long known as the Meat Rack, with a decades-old reputation as a cruising ground. By day it is simply the path between the towns. Stay on the marked paths (ticks and poison ivy are the real hazards), do not photograph anyone, respect a no, and take the beach or a water taxi after dark if you are not sure of the way.
Bars, clubs and places to eat in 2026-27
Names and owners have shifted in the last few seasons. These are the places that operated in summer 2026.
Ice Palace
Drag shows and the Miss Fire Island pageant
The Grove's big room, attached to the Grove Hotel beside the ferry dock. Headline drag, pool shows and late dancing, and the stage for the Miss Fire Island pageant each September. The hotel flags Wednesday and Friday as its busiest show nights.
Cherry's on the Bay
Bayside drag and sunset drinks
Bayfront bar and restaurant where the afternoon slides into drag and dancing with the sunset behind it. Good for lunch off the boat and for people who want a show without a club.
Island Breeze
Dockside deck
Casual deck by the ferry dock for burgers, cocktails and watching who just arrived. An easy first stop while you get your bearings.
Arts Project of Cherry Grove
America's oldest LGBTQ community arts organization
Community theater, cabaret and drag in the Grove's Community House and Theatre, all summer long. In September 2026 the same stage hosted the Grove & Pines Film Festival. Buy tickets on the Arts Project site.
The Blue Whale
Low Tea on the harbor
Harborside bar and restaurant and the home of Low Tea, the late-afternoon dance that has anchored the Pines day since the 1960s. On recent holiday schedules Low Tea began around 5pm. Arrive early if you want a spot on the rail.
The Pavilion
High Tea and late-night dancing
The Pines' main dance club, facing the ferry dock. High Tea follows Low Tea on the terrace (around 7pm on recent schedules), then the room turns into the late-night dance floor with visiting DJs on weekends.
The Canteen
Breakfast and ferry-watching
The daytime hub on the harbor: coffee, egg sandwiches, salads, and a front-row seat for every arriving ferry. Breakfast and lunch rather than a dinner spot.
Sip-n-Twirl
Late-night lounge
Cocktail lounge and compact dance floor a few steps from the harbor, listed in 2026 season guides as the Pines' late-night alternative to the Pavilion.
Pines Bistro and Pines Pizza
Dinner and the late slice
The Bistro is the Pines' sit-down dinner overlooking the marina; reserve on weekends. The pizza counter is the reliable slice after the dance floor. Both were listed as open in July 2026.
Fire Island events: Invasion, Pines Party, Miss Fire Island and more
The 2026 season is over. Here is what happened when, and what is already fixed for 2027.
- Annual
Fire Island Leather Weekend
Run by Excelsior MC and treated as the unofficial start of the season, a week before Memorial Day.
- Annual
Fire Island Bear Weekend
Five days of beach time, pool parties and a Mr. Fire Island Bear contest across both towns.
Invasion of the Pines
Since 1976: after a Grove drag queen was refused service in the Pines, a boatload of queens led by Panzi sailed over in full glamour. It became an annual tradition and marked its 50th crossing in 2025. The boat lands at the Pines dock in the early afternoon; in 2025 arrivals were at 2pm.
- Annual
Fire Island Dance Festival
Professional dance companies on a waterfront stage, raising money for Dancers Responding to AIDS.
Pines Party
The Pines' flagship benefit weekend, built around an all-night Saturday party on the beach. It raises money for the Pines Foundation, Stonewall Community Foundation and the Seashore Defense Fund. Housing for this weekend goes first.
- Annual
Miss Fire Island Pageant
A long-running afternoon drag pageant at the Ice Palace. The 2026 edition had a Wizard of Oz theme and an All Stars category for past winners.
- Annual
Trans Celebration Weekend
Organized by Queer Grove, with art walks, nature outings, performances and health resources.
- Annual
Grove & Pines Film Festival
A community-run LGBTQ+ film weekend. The 2026 program ran to 42 shorts and four features.
When to go to Fire Island: the season month by month
Memorial Day weekend
The opening. Houses are aired out, everyone is pale, the ocean is cold. Bring a layer for the ferry.
July
July 4 is the busiest day of the year because of the Invasion. Mid-month is the sweet spot: warm water, full bars, slightly fewer people.
Late July and August
Pines Party weekend, then the hot, fully booked heart of the season. Book rooms early and bring patience for the ferry line.
Labor Day and September
Labor Day is the big goodbye. The weeks after it are the locals' favorite: Miss Fire Island, the film festival, warm water, and room on the beach.
Weekdays
Tuesday to Thursday in July or August is a different island: quieter beaches, easier dinner tables, and people with time to talk.
Where to stay on Fire Island
Day trips need no booking at all. For overnights, the Grove has rooms and the Pines has houses.
The Grove Hotel
Pool, shows and the shortest walk from the ferry
The main hotel in the Grove, at the dock and attached to the Ice Palace, so expect it to be lively rather than restful. Adults only (21 and over), with a pool and deckside bar. Check-in is 3pm; tell them in advance if your boat lands after 9pm. Dogs up to 40 lb are accepted for a nightly fee.
1 Ocean Walk, Cherry Grove, NY 11782 · 631-597-6600 · Website
Belvedere Guest House for Men
A Grove landmark for men
The white Venetian-style palazzo on the bay, taking guests since 1957. Men only and clothing-optional, with a pool and hot tub. It also hosts the season-closing Spartacus party in September. Recent guides give its season as May to mid-October.
Dune Point Guest House
Oceanfront and calm
A small oceanfront guesthouse on the quiet side of the Grove, a good fit for couples and for anyone who wants the beach more than the bar.
The Madison Fire Island Pines
Rooms by the night in the Pines
One of the very few places to book by the night in the Pines: a nine-room, adults-only guesthouse with a heated pool, a short walk from both beach and harbor. It sells out months ahead for the big weekends.
House shares are the traditional way in. A group takes a house for the season and divides the weekends: full shares, half shares, quarter shares. Guides to the 2026 season quoted full shares from about $5,000 to $15,000 or more per person in the Pines, with the Grove generally cheaper. Shares are organized from January onwards, mostly through friends of friends, and individual weekends appear on the usual rental sites.
Staying on the mainland in Sayville and taking the boat over each day is a perfectly respectable budget move. Just respect the last ferry.
You carry everything
No cars, no porters. Pack a bag you can roll over boards or borrow the house wagon.
Bring food
There are small markets in both towns but island prices are island prices. Regulars bring groceries on the boat.
Book the big weekends early
July 4, Pines Party weekend and Labor Day sell out first, often months ahead.
The perfect Fire Island day trip
Follow this once. Improvise forever after.
One day, both towns
- Morning
Off-peak train out
Catch a mid-morning LIRR to Sayville, shuttle to River Road, and take the Cherry Grove boat. Buy a round trip.
- Late morning
Coffee and a look around the Grove
Wander the boardwalks, read the house names, have something to eat on a deck by the dock.
- Midday
The beach
Cross the dune by the marked walkway and set up on the ocean side. Swim near the lifeguards and look at the flags before you go in.
- Mid-afternoon
Walk to the Pines
About 20 minutes through the dunes or along the water's edge. Shoes on for the path. Peer politely at the architecture on the way to the harbor.
- 5pm
Low Tea
Drinks and dancing at the Blue Whale as the light turns gold over the harbor, then High Tea at the Pavilion if the boat schedule allows.
- Evening
The boat home
Your round-trip ticket works from either dock. Check the last departure when you arrive, not when you are three drinks in.
What a day on Fire Island costs
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| LIRR round trip, off-peak both ways | $32.00 |
| LIRR round trip, peak both ways | $43.00 |
| Sayville Ferry round trip | $20 cash / $20.70 card |
| Shuttle or taxi, station to dock | Extra, paid in cash each way |
| Water taxi between towns | Optional; fare varies by distance |
| The beach | Free |
So transport runs a little over $50 before you have bought a drink. Food and cocktails are priced like a resort, not like the mainland. A packed lunch and a refillable water bottle make a real difference.
Beach rules, ticks and staying safe
Ticks
Fire Island has a lot of them, and deer to carry them. Stay on boardwalks and marked paths, keep out of the grass and brush, use repellent, and check yourself and your dog that night. The National Park Service lists avoiding ticks first among its safety advice for the island.
Poison ivy and mosquitoes
Poison ivy lines many paths, another reason to stay on the boards. Mosquitoes are fierce on the bay side at dusk.
The ocean
This is open Atlantic with rip currents. Swim where there are lifeguards, and if you are pulled out, swim parallel to shore.
Dunes
Cross only at marked walkways. The dunes are what keep the island there.
Dogs and drinks
Dogs must be leashed. The National Seashore has its own alcohol policy, so check the rules for the stretch of beach you are on.
Consent and cameras
Friendly is the default. So is asking first. Do not photograph strangers on the beach, at tea or on the paths between the towns.
Pace yourself
Sun, salt and day drinking add up quickly. Water between cocktails, shade at midday, and a plan for the boat home.
Fire Island accessibility: boardwalks, ferries and beaches
There are no cars, which helps, and a lot of narrow, uneven boardwalk and soft sand, which does not. Sayville Ferry has a discounted fare for disabled passengers ($10 one way, $19 round trip in cash); call 631-589-0810 before you travel to ask about boarding with a wheelchair or scooter on the day's boats.
The National Park Service says it rebuilds boardwalks to universal-access standards as they are replaced, so conditions vary. Beach wheelchairs are available first come, first served at Sailors Haven, the National Seashore site next to Cherry Grove that is home to the Sunken Forest and has its own Sayville ferry. For current conditions, or to arrange a program, call the park on 631-515-5557.
Ask your guesthouse directly about steps, room access and distance from the dock. Many buildings here are old and raised on pilings.
A short history of gay Fire Island
- 1940s
The Grove finds its people
Theater people and gay and lesbian New Yorkers make Cherry Grove a summer refuge and start putting on shows.
- 1957
The Belvedere
The palazzo-style guesthouse opens on the bay in Cherry Grove.
- 1960s
The Pines takes shape
A newer, design-minded community grows next door, and tea dance begins at the Blue Whale.
- 1976
The first Invasion
Grove queens led by Panzi sail into the Pines harbor on July 4 after one of their own is refused service. It has happened every year since.
- 1980s-90s
The AIDS years
Both towns lose a generation of regulars, and turn their parties into fundraisers. Benefits such as the Dance Festival and the Pines Party carry that on.
- 2020s
New owners on the harbor
Tryst Hospitality takes over most of the Pines commercial district and begins rebuilding the old Botel.
For the wider story, see our LGBTQ+ history of New York.
What to pack for Fire Island
Beach
High-SPF sunscreen, hat, towel, sandals for hot boards, a refillable bottle.
Practical
Cash for the shuttle, water taxi and tips; insect repellent; a portable charger; a layer for the ferry and for evenings.
Overnight
A bag with wheels, groceries, and something to wear to tea. Nobody dresses up, exactly, but people do make an effort.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between Cherry Grove and the Pines?
Cherry Grove is older, more mixed and more casual, with a strong drag and theater tradition and a big lesbian presence. Fire Island Pines is next door, more upscale and mostly gay men, known for tea dance, the Pavilion and its modernist houses. They are about a 20-minute walk apart.
How do I get to Fire Island from NYC without a car?
Take the LIRR to Sayville, a shuttle van or taxi to the ferry terminal on River Road, then the Sayville Ferry to Cherry Grove or the Pines. The train is $16.00 off-peak or $21.50 peak each way and the ferry is $20 round trip in cash.
How much is the ferry to Cherry Grove or Fire Island Pines?
Sayville Ferry charges adults $11 one way or $20 round trip in cash, and $11.39 or $20.70 by card. Children aged 2 to 11 pay $11 round trip and dogs $7.
Can you do Fire Island as a day trip?
Yes, and it is the best way to see it for the first time. Leave Manhattan mid-morning, spend the day on the beach, catch Low Tea in the Pines around 5pm and take an evening boat back. Check the last ferry time when you arrive.
When is Fire Island season?
The main season runs from Memorial Day weekend to Labor Day, with events continuing into mid-September. In 2027 that means May 28-31 through September 6. The ferry runs a reduced schedule outside the season, but most bars, restaurants and guesthouses close.
When is the Pines Party in 2027?
The Pines Party is confirmed for Friday, July 30 to Sunday, August 1, 2027. It benefits the Pines Foundation, Stonewall Community Foundation and the Seashore Defense Fund.
Is there a hotel in Fire Island Pines?
There is no hotel open in the Pines right now: the former Botel is being rebuilt as The Tryst Fire Island and had not reopened as of September 2026, with the owner aiming for 2027. Most visitors to the Pines stay in house shares or rentals, or book a guesthouse room in Cherry Grove.
Is Fire Island welcoming to lesbians, trans people and first-timers?
Yes, Fire Island welcomes lesbians, trans people and first-timers. Cherry Grove in particular has a long lesbian history and hosts a Trans Celebration Weekend in September. The Pines skews toward gay men but is open to everyone, and day-trippers are a normal part of both towns.
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